Thursday, July 7, 2011

How to Check all the Wirings in House


Electrical systems for small residential buildings are usually simple in concept and layout. Primary components are the:
  • service entry,
  • panel board, and
  • branch circuits.
n unaltered buildings built since about 1940, the electrical system islikely to be intact and safe, although it may not provide the capacity requiredfor the planned reuse of the building. Electrical capacity can be easily increased by bringing additional capacity in from the street and adding a larger panel board between the service entry and the existing panel. Existing circuits can continue to use the existing panel and new circuits can be fed through the new panel.
The electrical systems of small residential buildings built prior to about1940 may require overhaul or replacement, depending on rehabilitation plans and the condition of the electrical system. Parts of these older systems may function very adequately and they can often be retained if the rehabilitation isnot extensive and the load-carrying capacity is adequate.
A thorough and informed assessment of the electrical system will determine the extent to which it can be reused. This assessment should be conducted only by a qualified electrician who is experienced in residential electrical work.When universal design is a part of a rehabilitation, consult the Housing and Urban Development publication Residential Remodeling and Universal Design for detailed information about electrical devices.

To determine the capacity (measured in amperes) of the building's existing electrical service at the main panel-board, check the following:
  • The capacity of the service entry conductor, which may be determined by noting the markings (if any) on the conductor cable and finding its rated capacity in the National Electrical Code, Table 310-16, or applicable local code. If the service entry conductor is in conduit, look for markings on the conductor wires as they emerge from the conduit into the panel board. If all conductors are unmarked, have an electrician evaluate them.
  • The ampere rating on the panel board or service disconnect switch, as listed on the manufacturer's data plate.
  • The ampere rating marked on the main circuit breaker or main building fuse(s). This rating should never be higher than the above two ratings; if it is, the system should not be used until it is evaluated by an electrician.
The building's service capacity is the lowest of the above three figures.
Once the service capacity has been determined, compare it to the estimate dampacity the building will require after rehabilitation. If the estimate capacity exceeds the existing capacity, the building's electrical service will need upgrading. The method for estimating required capacity is found in the National Electrical Code, Article 220.
Similarly, the service capacity of each branch circuit can be determined by checking the markings on each branch circuit conductor. If no markings can be found, a plastic wire gauge may be used to measure the wire size (with the power disconnected), although an experienced person can often determine the size bye ye. Find the ampere rating of the conductor, either by its markings or wire size, in the National Electrical Code, Table 310-16, or applicable local code.

How to Check a Circuit in House Wiring

When you think of checking an electrical circuit, you may immediately visualize technicians with meters, notebooks and special technical skills. But the only technology you really need is a logical mind and your own senses of sight and smell. If you have a circuit diagram or know all components that are powered on the circuit in question, you can use a process of elimination to find the cause of a tripped breaker.

Instructions

  1. Turn off the tripped breaker on the faulty circuit, then turn it back on again. If it trips again, leave it off and turn off the main breaker. You can replace the breaker to eliminate the possibility that the fault might be with the breaker itself. Breakers are inexpensive, and this will give you a definitive answer to whether the breaker is causing the problem.

  2. Use insulated pliers to grasp the end of the breaker snapped on to the hot buss, and pull the breaker free. Unscrew the screw holding the white wire, and remove the wire, then attach it to a new breaker with the same current rating. Snap the new breaker into place and turn on the main power.

  3. Flip on the breaker. If it trips again, look for signs of circuit overload or short circuits.

  4. Add the power draw of all circuit components that are normally on at the same time. The wattage's are marked clearly on all appliances and light bulbs. Divide this total by the voltage of the circuit (110 volts for household circuits) to get the current draw. This number must be less than the rating on the circuit breaker. If it is more, plug one or more appliances into another circuit, and try the breaker again.

  5. Unplug all appliances plugged into the circuit and turn off all lights if the breaker trips after you complete Step 4. Try the breaker again. If it trips again, check all receptacles and switches for signs of a short. These signs signs include blackening of the wall or cover plates, the smell of smoke and damaged components. Remove the cover plates of all components and check for loose or faulty wiring.

  6. Consult an electrician if you find no evidence of discharge, because the problem might be buried in the wall--in which case you need professional advice.

  7. Start turning on lights one at a a time, if the breaker remains on when you have removed all the loads from the circuit. If the breaker stays on, begin plugging in appliances used on the circuit. Examine any light fixture or appliance that trips the breaker for signs of faulty wiring, a short circuit or other damage.


Tips & Warnings

  • Note that some appliances, such as vacuum cleaners, have a surge in power draw when you turn them on. This surge can overload the circuit and trip the breaker.
  • If the breaker trips when you flip a light switch and you can find no fault with the light, the problem again might be buried in the wall.
  • Do not replace a breaker with one that has a higher rating unless the circuit and all components are also rated for the higher current.
  • Remember that the hot buss in a circuit panel is energized even when the main breaker is off. Never touch it when you are changing a circuit breaker.

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